This time of year, the fragrance of apples wafts in and out of historic storefronts in Julian. Want to experience it for yourself? Julian is about 55 miles from Temecula, but once you get out of Escondido, on SR-78, the trip through the windy roads and countryside is a pleasant way to spend a fall day.

Julian during the fall isn’t as crowded, and boasts shops that sell Julian’s most prized commodity – the apple. Visitors can watch apples being stuffed with cinnamon and getting readied for baking.

Apples in other forms can also be found: candied apples, caramel apples and the most famous of them all – the apple pie. Even though we can find Julian apple pies in markets at home, it is still fun to get them at their source.

Julian is still San Diego County but feels more like a town out of the Old West. The boardwalks leading to the historic buildings are a bit creaky and the buildings themselves have peeling paint, but that is part of the charm.

Since at least 1870 Julian has been of some significance. A plaque in town tells of "The Eagle Gold Mine, located April 5, 1870, (39 Chains Due East), by William J. Moran." It doesn’t say how much gold this Mr. Moran discovered or what strange form of measurement a "chain" is, but it does pique interest. I found out later that a man named Fred Coleman discovered gold in a local creek bed, a year earlier, in 1869.

My friend Jim and I drove up to Julian to celebrate his birthday with lunch at the Julian Grille, a historic house converted into a restaurant. We sat on what was formerly the front porch but is now an enclosed room with antiques, lace curtains and a view to the jasmine-covered front yard. Jim noticed that the doorbell was painted the same color as the wall but was still visible.

We both decided to order the delicious pork ribs, which were messy, but we both ate them as to not embarrass the other. It worked – we both had barbeque sauce slathered on our mouths and cheeks and we didn’t care!

A "Corn and Crab Chowder" was delicious as well. It was a thick mix of carrots, corn Advertisement

[ Berry-Bell and Hall Mortuary ] and crab.

For a special birthday dessert our Julian Grille server brought out a crystal glass heaped with lemon sorbet and topped with whipped crème and a candle which I made Jim blow out before we proceeded any further. This lemon dessert was "in a class of its own," said Jim.

We discussed sorbets in general and determined what they weren’t. Not ice cream, not gelato, and icier than sherbet – whatever it was, Jim and I concluded that it was perfect for a hot day in Julian! Even this late in the year, the town, which sits at 4,450 feet, was hot.

A trip to Julian wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the Julian Cider Mill, where they sell fresh apple cider, homemade candies, jams, jellies and other sweet treats.

Jim and I visited this same store 30 years ago as young students on spring break. Not much had changed – well, let me clarify that statement: not much in the STORE had changed. We talked about the large jawbreakers, the delicious candy pebbles and the conversation was probably much the same.

If you love cinnamon, like I do, their delicious candy called "Cinnamon Things" is for you. The Julian Cider Mill is a comforting institution, whether you are there to take a trip down memory lane or are a first-time visitor.

The drive on SR-78 takes you though Santa Ysabel, a quiet place with open fields leading to oak-studded golden hills.

For me, a Julian trip isn’t complete without a stop at Dudley’s Bakery in Santa Ysabel. Famous for their homemade breads, cookies and pastries, the clerk at the desk looked at my face and said, "You have the Dudley’s smile on your face!" She proceeded to tell me that she loves her job because everyone who comes into the store has a smile on his or her face.

I hadn’t the heart to tell her that my smile was partially a "Dudley’s Smile" but mostly the result of a wonderful day in Julian, where Jim and I ate messy ribs in a cozy café, then strolled along the streets, poking around the many quaint shops.

Does Julian really smell like apples? Come up and see for yourself!

Julian Apple Days Festival

October 6&7

Apple games, food, entertainment

Call (760) 765-4758 for information