What a difference a year makes in desert dining. Last time I was sunscaping in Palm Desert was last year and I was parched for fine wine places I could put on a pedestal in this column. Recommended restaurants were the same re-treads on El Paseo and the 111. Some have been closed up; others still hold court for many of the elder population.

I am glad to report that smart, sophisticated, beautifully decorated restaurants are up and winning customers by redefining taste in their cuisine and wines, and most are in classy resorts that have been recently built or renovated.

Blu Ember is new in the Rancho Las Palmas Resort and Spa, where dining is enjoyed on a carved wood table with live music nearby most nights. Wednesday is half-off bottled wines.

Tuscany Ristorante, in the JW Marriott Desert Springs, with its 600-plus wine selections, has ramped up the wine experience with sommelier Paul Bologna orchestrating thematic wine tastings most evenings.

All tastings are held at the scenic boat dock. The evening I joined him, it was a Pinot Noir Showdown: California vs. Oregon.

I found that of the six explored, the Napa Duckhorn Goldeneye ’05 was best, with Oregon’s best being the Willakenzie Estate "Pierre Leon," Willamette Valley, ’05.

The July schedule looks very tasty with six different lineups. Check them out if you’re going to the desert: www.desertsprings

resort.com.

An amazing new steakhouse in the desert

A new 300-million-dollar, 16-story resort, casino and spa, AguaCaliente, has risen in Rancho Mirage. Five lovely restaurants to choose from, but the unforgettable, stunningly beautiful facility is The Steakhouse.

At the entrance, the diner is greeted by rich woven woods and tiles plus a two-story waterfall. The dining room inside is wrapped in rich reds and gold, desert beige and earth tones.

Restaurant manager Patrick Lester guided me through the wine and food menu, brilliantly pairing the perfect wines with a Advertisement

[ Chatton and Associates ] menu of Portabella and Mozzarella Ravioli and Ki-bi Tenderloin Skewers. And that was just for starters! They were followed by Hearts of Palm Springs and Steakhouse Salad.

At last the main event was brought in, the Bone-in Rib Eye Steak, prime grade USDA, especially aged 21 days and seasoned with a dry grill rub. Sides included Potato Dauphinoise, creamy button mushrooms and creamed spinach with caramelized onions.

A 2003 Napa Wattle Creek Syrah washed it down to an incredible finish. After all that, I had to try the dessert specialty: Chocolate Molten with hot chocolate "lava" flowing from within.

Bravo to Executive Chef Mike Milligan, who was on hand to "walk" me through exactly what was prepared. The Steakhouse is currently crafting a Reserve Wine List where budget is no object. I spotted a famous ’84 Stags Leap Cabernet for the most special of occasions. Find out more for yourself at www.hotwatercasino.com.

The Local Sip

• July 21 – 6:30 to 10 p.m. – Silverado Vineyards dinner at the French Gourmet in San Diego. Among others, Silverado’s 2001 Cabernet will be tasted with stuffed Pork Loin. (858) 488-1725

• July 24 – 6:30 p.m. – Italian wine dinner at the Four Seasons Aviara. The star will be Perre Seillan, winemaster of Kendall Jackson’s Tenuta Di Arceno, a leading vineyard in Tuscany. Outdoor Tuscan-style sit-down dinner. (760) 603-3790

• July 24 – 6:30 p.m. – Chalk Hill wines to be spotlighted during the wine dinner at Firefly Grill & Wine Bar in Encinitas. (760) 635-1066

• July 25 – 4 to 9 p.m. – Another Bacchus Wine Market "Drink Yourself Blind" events in which you guess the grape in blind tastings. Located in the Gaslamp, San Diego. Prizes for four or more correct. (619) 236-0005

Frank Mangio is a wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator. His library of columns may be viewed at www.tasteofwinetv.com. Reach him at mangiompc@aol.com.